Moorish Gecko (Crocodile Gecko) Care Sheet

Caresheet Location: GGA care sheets

COMMON NAME: Moorish Gecko, Crocodile Gecko

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Tarentola mauritanica (Linnaeus, 1758)

DESCRIPTION: The Moorish Gecko is, for its size, strong and heavily built.  The most distinguishing characteristics are the rows of keeled, tubercular scales along the back, flanks and tail. It has a large, pointed head. Coloration is usually gray to brown with some darker mottling. The ventral surface is immaculate white. A flap of skin runs along the flanks and the limbs are relatively short. The undersides of the toes are equipped with adhesive toe-pads along their entire length.  Juveniles are more brightly coloured with some transverse striping which fades with growth. Adult size can reach about six inches.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region from southern France to Greece and northern Africa.  Has recently been reported as living and breeding in California.

NATURAL HISTORY: Moorish Geckos are found in dry, rocky areas particularly on cliff faces and large boulders etc.  They may be very common around human settlements, particularly stone walls. Whilst primarily nocturnal, they can often also be seen basking during the day.

HOUSING IN CAPTIVITY: Owing to its aggressive, territorial behaviour, only one male can be kept in each enclosure. I once tested this idea by setting up 2.3 in a heavily decorated 50 gallon aquarium.  The larger male immediately hunted down and attacked the other male.  An enclosure the size of a 10 gallon aquarium will house a pair, but bigger is better.  It should be vertically oriented with plenty of securely stacked rocks and branches. Moorish geckos are able to climb on the glass of the tank.  Substrate can be as simple as newspaper or a couple inches of clean, dry sand.  Keep one corner slightly moist or provide a humid shelter.  No special lighting is required, although a basking spot reaching 85º F is appreciated.  A drop at night to average room temperature is fine.  Some keepers provide a dish of water, but I prefer an occasional, once or twice a week, light misting in the mornings when the lights go on.  Do not spray the geckos directly.

FOOD AND FEEDING: They will actively hunt down and consume anything that moves.  Any appropriate sized insect is fine and some adults will take the occasional pink mouse.  If you raise your own insects and they are well fed and supplemented, no additional vitamin supplementation is necessary.  

HEALTH:  I have found these geckos to be amazingly parasite and disease free.  They are extremely hardy. The only problem I have seen is with shedding the skin on the toes if they do not have access to a damp refuge.  They are not recommended for handling and can be nervous.

BREEDING: These Tarentola should be kept in true pairs.  Unfortunately, even adult animals are difficult to sex.  Males are said to be more robust in body size and have a wider head than females. However, even world famous gecko expert Arthur Loveridge wrote, “externally the sexes appear indistinguishable”!

Some breeders advocate a 2-4 week cooling down period to stimulate breeding activity.  While I make no effort to provide this cool down, the natural fluctuation in home temperatures seems to slow down activity during the winter. Two to four clutches of two eggs each are buried in a moist section of the substrate during the spring and summer. Eggs should be incubated at about 80º F in dry sand or vermiculite.  Dampen the substrate in one corner of the incubation dish away from the eggs and do not allow them to get wet.  The young hatch in 2-2 1/2 months, depending on temperature.  Hatchlings are about three-quarters of an inch long and feed on pin head crickets, fruit flies or other appropriate sized insects within a week of hatching. This species is cannibalistic so the young should be reared separately from the adults. Communal housing of young is possible but is not recommended and you should be prepared for missing toes and tails. The young are slow to mature, taking up to 2 years.   

 

 

All information in this care sheet is to be used as a guide. Reptile's Galore takes no responsibility for anything that may happen to your pet or you while following this guide.